Session 3: Electrics Continued

The connecting block (in my fingers) and
 to the right, the brass connecting "bullet". 

So, I have repaired the broken wire; it was a simple soldering job. The before and after photos are to the right. It was easier than I expected, because the wires have brass "bullets" on the ends, which plug into connecting blocks, so I could solder it separately. You may be able to see the brass "bullet" in the upper photo.

The repaired wire, plugged into the block. 

Once I repaired the wire, I tested the final wire on the bike, to the brake light. This did not connect, so I have removed the brake switch for further examination. There was only one wire connected, which seems suspicious, and on closer examination, it looks like a connecting tab may have fallen off. While cleaning the switch of the thick layer of grease (it is bolted on to a greasing nipple), the other tab fell off, so it may be a good idea to find a replacement switch. The tab could be soldered on, but I think continued vibration would break the solder joint. There is a blob of solder on the tag already, so clearly it was not a strong enough bond.

The front of the switch, showing the trigger usually operated by the foot brake lever.

The back of the switch, showing the two points where tabs would have been connected. Notice the solder blob on the right hand one. 

UPDATE: It is just as I thought, there were originally two connectors on the back, as shown here http://www.britcycle.com/products/391/391_31827_002.jpg  It would also appear that new switches are in the region of £30, which seems like a lot to me, but may be worth the money. 

Moving on again, to the ammeter. 

As shown in the picture below, there was a slight fault that needed sorting out. Dad and I reckoned that the needle had broken off and is somewhere inside, shorting out. 

I have managed to chip off the epoxy, and have opened the ammeter up. As expected, the needle is still there, so just needs reattaching. At the bottom is a picture of the two halves. 

If you are really observant, you might
notice a minor fault. There's no needle.

The back, which appears to have
been epoxied shut. 

The two halves of the ammeter. The needle can be seen loose inside the
front, as seen on the left.